Lorenzo Riva fall 2010 Milan

Marlene Dietrich’s timeless charm explodes at Lorenzo Riva, where elegance meets humor and austerity meets sensuality. The suits recall a 40s allure modernized by padded shoulders on the structured blazers and belts holding tight the waist. An ironic quotation to the german diva, other than the hairstyle and the maquillage, is the black neckties emerging from the shirt necklines giving an androgynous look.

The colors are very autumnal and sophisticated: warm grays lay tone on tone enriched solely by the designs and hues of brown interweave in masculine Prince of Wales. The lack of pants blurs a little the passage from daywear to evening wear, while the palette changes drastically to teal, blues, mauve and black. Contrasts of colors and prints harmonically mix in the long, fluid dresses and prismatic jacquards and dévoré and moiré velvet take over wool and jersey. A few flared skirts and many body-conscious little dresses pace the catwalk.

The designer’s meticulous attention for details is to be found on the precious hook decorations and on the modest necklines refined by half bows. Fluctuating tunics in crêpe de Chine give a hint that the collection is drawing to an end, when a knee-length wedding dress closes the show giving us a nude back.