Paola Frani s/s 2011 Milan

Tucked away in a quiet corner of Milan, Paola Frani was amongst the first Italian designers to display her work at the Milan Fashion Week for S/S 2011. As Paul Kalkbrenner’s serene tune, ‘Sky and Sand’ navigated the attention towards the ramp, Frani’s ‘Minimal-Tropical’ collection brought the Caribbean indoors. The groundwork for this collection was laid in the contrasts each look encompassed. They were intended to leave onlookers stranded between natural rigours and a conceptual tropical state; essentially between sand and sky; reality and imagination.

The evident concentration, in terms of colours, was white and multiple shades of beige; both featuring dominantly in this minimalist collection, which also had substantial doses of dark shades. The whites held the theme of the collection together, exuding a symbiosis between minimalism and naturalism. However, the mirrored floral prints with a generous colour palette were the standouts of the collection. Symmetrical prints on silk, charged with peony, bougainvillea and fuchsia, with a free flowing profile spoke volumes for the comfort Frani wished to convey through her garments.

Linens were the mainstay in this collection and could be found in multiple forms, namely; gauze, stretch, knitted and jersey. The collection had an air of buoyancy about it with its repeated use of gauze linen in flounces on both skirts and blouses alike. This buoyancy was furthered by viscous knitwear in delicate shades. The attention to detail might be overlooked if seen from a distance, however, at close range one will find repeated use of jet embroidery and suede fringing on loose jersey jackets and crossover dresses. The contrast, that is central to this collection, was primed with generous use of metallic belts and plexiglas clasps.

This exciting collection is largely based on specific looks rather than an assortment of garments for purchase. In a season where designers are being cautious in their use of colour, the mirrored floral prints and pink silhouettes that ended the collection are sure to be a welcome trademark for Paola Frani for S/S 2011.

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