Gareth Pugh s/s 2011 Paris
Gareth Pugh tightens his bond with art, choosing to display his Spring/Summer collection in a fashion film, rather than in a more orthodox runway show. The short, directed by Ruth Hogben has been launched on Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio.com just after the presentation in Paris, making it accessible to a much wider audience. In 11 minutes it’s possible to see Pugh’s sensational work on a cyber-esque Kristen McMenamy with her loose yet mechanic and obsessive movements, because movement is what this collection is all about. In pictures you can only see how sharp and structured the garments are, but in video you see the lightness that some of them have and the flow of the masterly draped dresses.
True to his roots, the designer worked with optical prints, strong silhouettes and unexpected fabrics with his distinctive humor spread out through the whole collection. Fall/Winter historical glamour is left behind for a more futuristic look.
Slick silicone coated jersey on a neoprene base moulds around the body and rubberized PVC, appliquéd on stretch jersey, creates a modern armor. In contrast, sheer tops and dresses lighten the outfits and the sinuous curves draped on the blazers break with the more rigid structures. Side slashes on bermudas and flared pants show the pattern of the lining, also printed over some voluminous dresses and a limited edition scarf that anticipates the line coming to stores. Along with the ice grey and the black, metallic silver features: aluminum coated nylon, that acts as a two way mirror, is used to create diaphanous shapes around the body and super reflective silver creates a modern camouflage – something that has its own unique color and texture depending on its surroundings.
As usual the collection was complemented by some men’s pieces. The strongest look consisted of a polished suit with a minimal lapel-less blazer and flared pants. Gareth Pugh kept it elegant and modern without compromising his aesthetic, giving us a sleek collection and very refined silhouettes.
