Haider Hackermann s/s 2011 Paris
affirmed his talent once for all with his Spring/Summer collection, establishing his leadership in the Antwerp new generation. His women evoked an ancestral beauty, without compromising a powerful - almost poisonous - elegance.
The sculptural lapels that wowed us last season moved to the waist creating floral twisted obi belts, introducing japanese inspiration. The options for the daywear go from light tops and lose-fitting pants to deconstructed vests paired with tight leather capri pants. The signature leather jackets, in a lighter sleeveless version with a biker twist, are slightly oversized and off the shoulders. The chest, underneath the jackets, is crossed diagonally by thin strings, from which pleated full skirts hang over loose pants. Hints of bondage are also to be found on the back of sleeves and on cuffs, where leather strings wriggle among metal eyelids.
The evening wear appears more delicate and relaxed. From his menswear debut at , Ackermann took the striped silk pajamas and transformed them into optical wide gowns and kimono-like robes. Along with silk jersey mermaid skirts with high slits, the designer created very sensual backless dresses with plunging necklines, playing with layers of crêpe tone on tone or in black with accent colors, such as electric blue, yellow, emerald green, ruby red and nuances of violet.
