Helmut Lang S/S 2012 New York
If minimalism tickles your fancy, Helmut Lang’s collection this season is an absolute must see! After 5 years of absence from the Fashion Week’s runway, the brand made a fabulous comeback, leaving the audience in awe. The designers, Michael and Nicole Colovos, put together an exquisite show, keeping to their deconstructivist approach. The asymmetrical necklines, the strange but oh-so-luxurious brassieres, the statement jackets, caused quite a stir among the audience!
The artists exhibited a number of wondrous items, all in line with their architectural, urban take to fashion. The key features of the collection were sharply cut, shoulder-padded blazers paired up with asymmetric oversized flowing tees and high-waist harem pants. Aside from these, dissymmetric dresses cut out of floating fabrics were the central piece of the collection. They came in numberless shapes, eccentric cuts, with or without shoulders, with a small trail or intricate, contrasting embroidery on the chest area. Also, the aforementioned brassieres were a hit themselves, given their versatility and the twist they proved to add to an outfit. We saw how these feminine items can easily be paired up with anything from a close-fitting dress, to an unbuttoned jacket or just a silky skirt for a really badass look! Anyway you look at it, there’s some skin showing in each outfit and we love it!
Clearly, the concept behind this collection relies on providing a feeling of coolness and effortless chic. The effect was achieved through the use of transparent, delicate fabrics meant to incite the imagination. There’s nothing more alluring than a tight tee topped with a fluid, semitransparent piece of fabric which enhances the contour of the body and movement of the slender figure wearing it. For maximizing this along with the minimalist effect, the designers made use of a highly restricted color palette: black, white, sulfur yellow, adding just a touch of grey. Most items are either monochromatic, or in the classical black and white combination. However, there are a few select pieces which clearly differentiate themselves from the rest due to the simple, yet catchy print: a few oversized brushstrokes scattered on the fabric. These dresses remind the viewer of a contemporary artist’s canvas, smothered with genius and mix feelings.
Helmut Lang creations are for classy, sophisticated business people just as much as they are for controversial artists or posers. They can be matched with almost anything as they will always reveal a new side of them, as well as a new side of the wearer. Clothes like these are keepers, I tell you!
