Alexander McQueen S/S 2012 Paris

The silhouette is undoubtedly womanly and sensual, losing some of its human form for something closer to that of an enchanting siren. The waist has been  brought higher up to accentuate the movement of the body, swaying like gentle waves on a beach. Intricate ruffles are added to replicate the movement of seaweed  and jellyfish along the ocean bed. Mermaids in feminine halter necks, nymphs in playful knee-length, deities in long draping dresses and corseted figures come out from forgotten stories and onto the magical runway.

The color palette is predominantly soft and romantic, with waves of broken-shell pink and pearly white suddenly infused with slick black. Metallic silver, gold and coppers add an alluring and exotic touch like a hidden treasure would on a tropical island. In the midst of the warmth of the colors, notes of melancholia permeate through metallic purple tints or in fiery red proposals – like the clothes themselves, the simplicity of the colors or image viewed from afar cannot be compared to the complexity of the minute details found beneath the surface.

The incredible design of the fabric, like the oyster-print silk chiffon layered in a flowered flurry, is an example of the near-obsessive attention to detail. The perfect embellishments of small pearls, warm corals, bright crystals, elegant mother of pearl and delicate sequins, whether set on chiffon, organza, tulle or leather, display a high level of craftsmanship, care and dedication to the fine particulars which set this collection apart from the others.

A collection that resonates a deafening legacy left by McQueen, rightfully illuminated and resuscitated through the echoes of Sarah Burton’s light  feminine touches.