Luis Buchinho ModaLisboa 2011

It seems like Portugal is the new promise land in fashion! Aside from the few well-established national designers, numberless great talents keep springing up like mushrooms after a rain shower, enchanting the public with authentic, personal pieces; what got us hooked is simply how different the creations are from what one can regularly spot on the Milan or Paris runways. It’s something particular about fashion in Portugal and I can’t quite put my finger on it; maybe it’s the natural chic, the subtle beachy notes, the revealing cuts or the particular fabrics, I honestly don’t know!  

Luis Buchinho, illustrious Portuguese designer, was the one to bring a sexy, exotic feel to the Paris Fashion Week. With a collection centered on drapes and fine, feminine silhouettes, he revived the myth of Greek and Roman Goddesses. Knee-length flowing dresses, exposed shoulders, delicate embroidery, empire waists, represent the artist’s unique take on the theme. Leaving aside the faint ruffles, ethereal figures and body-hugging translucent fabrics, the designer also featured a few statement pieces like super low-cut blazers and low-waist draped trousers. One catchy detail were the zippers scattered throughout the collection in the most unexpected places, leaving skirts or dresses lusciously hanging half-open around a girl’s waist, for instance. Another quirky touch was pairing up silk with sequins… The roughness of sequins is not toned down by the precious fabric, but enhanced; the applications become mysterious and alluring. Last but not least, the color palette is a beautiful combination of ivory, coral, and nude, sherbet yellow, black and white.

The gentle transition from one color to the other is achieved through the use of a very special fabric featuring a pattern of color splashes and degrades of beige, salmon pink, peach, yellow, grey. The selection of fabrics makes these pieces truly luxurious; nothing is more flattering than silk, the softest jersey, sequins, and comfortable light cotton.