Qiu Hao

Qiu Hao, nominee for the “Breakthrough Designer Award” by WGSN and his latest collection: Serpens FW2011.

It can be undeniably stated that all eyes are on China. Whether the looks are immersed with admiration or  plunged in curiosity, ultimately depends on people’s opinions and views. What remains a fact , however, is the growth and development of fashion and design creatives that are arousing the interest and attention of a global audience.
The immensely talented designer, Qiu Hao, hails from the city of Taicang, approximately an hour away from Shanghai. After completing his studies in interior and spatial design, he launched his first ready-to-wear line, Neither Nor, back  in 2001. After three years, he moved to London to continue his studies with a MA in Womenswear at Central St. Martins. Finally, back at home in Shanghai,  he officially launched his eponymous label, QIUHAO, in 2006.

Qiu Hao is a designer with  unquestionable creativity and technical mastership, and, without surprise, was bound to be noticed by the world. The Parisian debut of his knitwear collection, held at the Palais de Tokyo during Couture Fashion Week in 2008, was a major success allowing him to join the prestigious Woolmark Hall of Fame, and winning the Woolmark prize the same year.  Since then, the 33 year old designer was the most important Chinese Fashion personality in 2011, and was nominated for the “Breakthrough Designer Award”  by WGSN at the Global Fashion Awards.
This year’s F/W collection, Serpens, is a thought-provoking and ‘deceptively simplistic’ display of what lies in Qiu Hao’s mind. The designs are complex, but run along fluid lines with immaculate cuts. Serpents is shrouded in a beautiful darkness which resonates some of Mcqueen’s later works. The feel of every piece is otherworldly and mysterious enough to send shivers running down your spine.  The black and white collection comprises of tall and dark hooded silhouettes with fur cuffs, lean ladies in white or black evening gowns which extend to the floor, and simple asymmetric jackets which  resemble comforting winter blankets. Not to mention the eerie fur gloves which act as an armor for the women who wear them.
The combination of shapes and textures add to the beauty already fabricated along with the design.  Qiu Hao’s non-standard approach to aesthetics, which masks the most  complex details and perfect execution techniques, is inspirational and influential. As he says himself, ‘image is a simple way to say complicated things’. This mysterious and highly gifted designer, who seems to mirror Margiela in more than one way, is an exciting response from China within the platform of fashion.

Photo by Matthieu Belin