Jasper Conran AW 2012
Refinement and timelessness, are the best words to describe Jasper Conran’s collection presented a few days ago during the London Fashion Week. The old school British designer has an exuberant talent for crafting pieces that are likely to never go out of fashion. Perhaps it’s the sheer royal feel that the cuts exude, or the way in which they subtly contour and enhance the feminine physique. What is certain is that this sir makes a statement for elegance and exquisite fine taste, time and time again.
Whilst watching his collection, I could not help but stare in awe at the Lady-like allure of the models and wish from the bottom of my heart that I would, for once, look so elegant and perfectly put together. The models were radiant, glowing with a sense of aristocratic beauty. Jasper Conran’s take on femininity has nothing to do with exposing cuts; his aim is to empower his woman with a feeling of nobility and comfort, and allow this to show to the fullest. There is a certain hidden sexiness and sensuality that transpires through the barely revealing items, which intrigue and excite the viewer, stirring his imagination.
All pieces are classy and stylish, conferring the wearer a luxurious appearance. The clean, smooth cuts focus the attention on key parts of the female body, such as neck, waist and legs, deemed by many as the most attractive and inciting. Considering the neckline, we notice two prevailing motifs throughout the collection: the flattering round neck and, by contrast, deep, asymmetric v-cuts. The round collar is one element that will always be considered graceful and only adds up to the imperial feel of the collection, while the reinterpreted v-cut brings an edge to otherwise simple, neat items. Hence, the emphasis is on perfect posture, with porcelain collar bones accentuated by the tasteful contours of the dresses and jackets. Another wonderfully pinpointed element is the waistline: again we notice a contrast, this time between the tailored, body-hugging dresses, and the boxy jackets just above the hip bones. They both underline the hourglass shape and succeed in conveying an elongated, supple silhouette.
The first few outfits are a bit more structural than the rest, drawing inspiration from the 60’s coats with rounded shoulders, bouffant sleeves, and tulip bottoms. Next, we witness a transition to more rigid deux- pieces and reinvented wartime trench coats, followed by a series of tailored suits and dresses, concluding with a few evening wear pieces. The color palette is restricted to neutral tones such as black, gray, caramel and peachy beige; center stage taken by a few different shades of copper, the result of the various fabrics employed. The details are the ones adding richness and attitude to the entire collection: a few sparkles here and there, a fantastic feathery piece to steal the spotlight, leather ensembles and exquisite textures. The sequin dress is surely to become one of next season’s most sought-after items, along with the Stella McCartney- inspired polka dot print that was such a hit a few months ago.
Jasper Conran’s show was the highlight of London’s fashion week in terms of amaranthine elegance. The widely acclaimed British designer has succeeded in making us dream again of fall and the seasons’ changing.
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