Costume National AW 2012
Italian fashion designer Ennio Capasa went back to black for the fall collection of his label Costume National. Capasa called it ”New Wave-No Wave-Dark Wave” and since most of the outfits are in dark tones, he presented them in complementary gloomy environment. This might have been his comfort zone, if there weren’t asymmetric sartorial techniques, mixing of materials and patchworks.
Apart from dramatic shapes and cuts, the garments are wearable, but they are still for rather edgy combinations. Asymmetry is definitely something that will make this collection recognized in future. The majority of dresses, jackets and blazers have uneven sides and they are good examples for a mixture of femininity and androgyny. A white shirt with oversized sleeves tucked in a black leather pencil skirt and layering suggest that black isn’t elegant per se, if not well combined with other pieces. Those who aren’t brave enough should avoid coats with uneven peaks on the bottom. We feel that Capasa had such a great inspiration and had to made these overcoats, at the cost of them not being bestsellers. But we have no doubt he knew that early adopters and fashionistas would probably strongly support his bold move.
The most attention-grabbing pieces are certainly long-sleeved tops made of lace and tulle. They are with turtleneck collars (only one shirt is with round neck) and have just a small black stripe protecting model’s nipples. It does not exceed the limit of good taste, but it’s still very provocative and tickles your fancy.
This time, Capasa was picky when it comes to colors and stood by label’s trademark color – black. With that in mind, he put only few red details on some patchworks and opted for just a few midnight blue and white garments. The selected choice of materials is what breaks the monotony – leather jackets, skirts and trousers with wide bottoms, sheer tops, patent pants and skirts, and, like other designers who set the trend for the next season – fur sleeves on coats. Dramatic looks feature leather gloves – short and other long wrinkled, hats, ankle and just-over-the-knee boots and surprising fanny packs.
The designer proved once more that even someone with edgy look can show the affinity towards timeless style. He may have kept it simple with colors, but he also showed the ability to take risk combining different fabrics and textures. In his case, it’s like some kind of sorcery!
