Haider Ackermann AW 2012
Haider Ackermann’s showcase, held a few days ago during Paris Fashion Week, was a marvelous intertwining of timeless elegance, juicy constructivism and bad-ass chic. The collection was a savory mix of classic, flamboyant and edgy pieces which resulted in overthrowing the imagination of even the most conservative spectator. The crowd was left in awe, mesmerized, dazed and confused.
Designing this collection, the artist successfully toyed around with numberless long-forgotten trends, styles and types of cuts, coming up with a fantastic, fresh series of volumes, plies and drapes. For the maxi effect he matched clashing textures, whilst keeping a more subtle, fluid choice of nuances for each outfit. For such a daring collection, the toned down color palette made it a lot less intimidating and more accessible for the public.
Of course, the overall impact was fascinating, but at a closer look, what really made this show fabulous were the details. There’s true art and majesty in the lines and proportions of the cuts. The embellishment of muse-like elongated silhouettes, wasp waists and delicate necklines was the result of astute observations on behalf of the artist of the human body and its movement. Ackermann had a well-defined image of the type of woman he wanted to portray, and he succeeded magnificently in transposing her on the catwalk.
The architectural dimension of the jackets, for instance, perfectly compliments the fragile feminine figure, while also shedding a new type of light upon it, making it utterly mysterious and alluring. Oversized rounded shoulders vaguely reminisce of Audrey Hepburn’s lovely bubble coats, waist-cut blazers bring back to memory men’s old school sartorial pieces, while futuristic leather jackets dash the right amount of sensuality and spice.
There’s an underlying dark twist to the whole scene and it’s exquisite! These modern vamps are equally sophisticated and rebellious, refined and dangerous. Borderline- shocking tailoring paired up with red lipstick and messy hair are the perfect finishes. With a hint of eccentricity, and a dab of glamour, a femme fatale icon is created.
