John Galliano AW 2012

There’s a fine line between chic and kitsch. Proof of this statement was served at the new fall collection of John Galliano‘s namesake label. Namely, this has been second solo fashion show for head designer Bill Gaytten since John Galliano left, and, for the second time, Gaytten has proved to be a worthy successor. Looking at individual garments, there’s something for everyone, but observing whole outfits – it’s not for anyone.

Models gracefully presented outfits influenced by British sophistication and stylish riding apparel. In a way, ensembles are conservative, but the designer played with accessories and some looks have their fetishistic side. Thigh-high tights and ruffled collars are leitmotifs that permeate through majority of combinations. Dresses and coats have been cut into unusual shapes and various materials were used. Most wearable pieces are probably coats and blouses, again with ruffled collars and some kinds of bows. Pleated dresses are very extravagant and certainly something to wear next season. Like many creators in their fall collections, Gaytten did not leave out fur coat sleeves. However, with velvet cropped trousers, oversized hats, stockings and sheer dresses (some of which are 100% see-through,) he showed why Galliano is like no other brand. Also, he certainly knows what “save the best for last” means. Yes, it’s the flamboyant red duo – dress and cape, saved for the thrilling finale. Red swaying cloak over black leotard is surprising Little Red Riding Hood moment, but this time not from children’s books.

The color palette is miscellaneous – brown, royal blue, mustard, cinnamon, grey and unforgettable red. Huge hats, stockings, leather gloves and lace-up booties were accessories added to complete almost every look.

This autumnal Galliano collection is, as stated at the beginning, definitely not for everyone. One must have courage and occasion to wear some pieces individually, but even more boldness to pull off the whole runway look.