Mugler AW 2012

Paris fashion week is all about très chic fashion shows. Creative director, Nicola Formichetti, and head of women’s design, Sebastien Peigné, made sure that Mugler would not an exception. For this fall collection, the duo got inspired by the idea of symmetry, graphic stylization indicative of the Far East and, above all, Thierry Mugler’s Les Insectes SS collection from 1997.

The Mugler woman and the trends for the following season were presented in a different environment. This time, the catwalk was closer to the audience, as a part of Formichetti’s new philosophy that fashion shouldn’t be elitistic; on the contrary, fashion should be without frontiers. Well, we can say that it’s a brilliant idea, but  the two Mugler designers couldn’t leave behind the brand’s identifiable looks and outfits that are made for futuristic and fantastical editorials. The ensembles are very dramatic with unconventional peplums emphasizing the hips and the ratherraised shoulders that can transform even a simple monochrome dress in a vampish one. Most of the outfits feature long sleeves, some of which are styled like kimonos- however,  there are also those which are furry, sheer or just ’’simply’’ plain black or white. This collection features three white coats (one wide and two belted) and each one is exudes different senses and sensibilities.

Some skirts consist of laser cut fringes and some almost no longer resemble skirts, while the entire upper body is covered in fabric. These pieces are completed with structured hoods and that’s where this fashion show reflects the similarities that were present to one showcased in the nineties. Namely, the original Mugler LesInsectes show abounded in bug eye glasses and antennae -and perhaps this season’s collection was a tribute in honor of the former designer Thierry Mugler.

Although the choice of colors seems simple at first, there are reasons why we believe they are carefully selected. The white looks from the beginning of the show are in some way angelic.The silhouettes feature a cinched waist and an hourglass shape. In contrast, black ensembles that occur in the second part of the show are mystically deep and made of alternating rigid and transparent materials. But when we mention the colors, we cannot overlook the shocking coral suit and orange stretch thigh-high split dress.

When in Paris, there are some fashion shows you never want to miss out on, and Mugler is definitely one of them. You can either love or hate it, but there is no way one can look upon the show indifferently. Mugler does not allow for that -and we can be pretty certain it never will.