Versace AW 2012
Dark and indomitable seduction ruled the Versace catwalk during Milan Fashion week. But apart from the opaque color palette and edgy shapes, the collection featured something more emotionally remote and sentimental for the audience that watched steadily from the shadows.
The initial looks, featuring monochromatic restraints, fiercely embellished Byzantine crucifixes, seamed and studded leathers, all whispered Gianni’s name and seemed to pay homage to the long-lost era of the great Italian designer. The fact that Donatella seems to have finally mustered the courage to complete her brother’s dream of “modernizing” the Versace name, is undeniable.
The candid and straightforward sensuality coined by Versace emanated from every look on the runway. Reviving her haute couture collection, Donatella revisited the bustline and hips by drawing eye’s attention there: to the ever-present hourglass feature. Her attention to construction is reflected through the built-in overstated hips and the edgy cuts. The silhouettes were somewhat sinuous and exaggerated the curves, featuring rounded shoulders upon jackets and coats, and strapless dresses that placed emphasis on the outline and contours of the body. The lengths of the pieces wavered between the sexy above-the-knee Versace staple, and very long for evening looks.
The color palette was predominantly black from the beginning, but shed into a sober white and then more the more cheerful colors of hazmat orange and chrome yellow towards the end. The fabric of choice was initially leather, as the show proceeded crocodile, satin, astrakhan and jais were used – and to conclude, loud shimmering sequined pieces were saved for last. Using strips of plastic, crystal and the signature Versace chain-mail, Donatella created these futuristic outfits which are extremely modern yet nostalgic of times that have passed.
A jacket made out of boiled metallic alpaca wool added a touch of interesting texture and surprise during the essentially Gothic presentation, as did the splashes of the bright, colorful dresses. Clutches with the same jeweled Byzantine crosses complimented the outfits, and daring leather belts with crystals clinched the waist for that perfect figure.
It goes without say that this dramatic collection was a welcomed change for Versace. The nostalgic leitmotif can be considered as much a tribute as a goodbye to the times that have passed, and will hopefully lead the house of Versace down a new, refreshing path.
