Christopher Kane London Fashion Week S/S 2013

Christopher Kane’s collection for Spring/Summer 2013 is certainly something amazing, in the true sense of the word. It amazes because at first, it presents a series of immaculate and simple pieces, all white on white, well-structured jackets, dresses skirts and pants with hard lines, deep cut-outs and zips. However, with a closer look it is clear that there is something more than just meets the eye: pants, skirts and also jackets are held together with big transparent plastic screws, which Kane himself calls the “nuts and bolts”, giving the impression of the outfits being paper-made. The designer’s choice of unusual materials, which will play an even more central role in his following looks on this catwalk, is now introduced.

From snow-white linear shapes to a burst of powder pink and neon yellow, we experience the end of white calmness to dive into a sort of origami style with its fold-over textures and the usual attention to detail and minimalist shapes. A contrast cannot go unnoticed: the hard and simple lines clashing with the delicate and girly bow patterns and the use of imperceptible fabrics in a soft palette of colors.

It is time for another turn and Christopher Kane once again shows his talent and artistry presenting some pieces constructed like a filigree of jelly rubber to eventually end with his final –once again, amazing- elegant dresses made of a wise mix of ethereal organza, crystal jewellery and lace held by what seems to be a random application of black tape.

It is possible to say that the last collection presented by Christopher Kane truly rests on a constant contrast. The elegant beauty and refinement of his sophisticated clothes are given a new life thanks to the use of uncommon and even unpromising components in a way that reminds us of Frankenstein. And what is this, but a not-so-subtle expression of today’s designers’ ambition?