Donna Karan New York Fashion Week S/S 2013
Donna Karan embodies everything American, to be precise: the vanguard New Yorker style. This time she brought us on a trip to the deepest sea with a collection that uses a large part of the palette of blues and that reminds us about a remote beach. And if pale aqua, indigo, oyster white and eggshell were not enough Karan surprises with jade, pink, rose and some metallic gold.
The collection was not only a mix of colors but also a aching meeting of textures and fabrics that emphasize the beauty of nature. With stiff cottons, stretch paper linens and pongee silks and a pinch of tulle, ribbons and raffia it’s hard to understand if Karan’s woman is a mermaid, a ballerina or a flashback into 50s. In this Donna Karan SS 2012/2013 our natural world seems to clash with the modern times we live in –the dresses floating in the air as they were insubstantial, weightless, have to harmonize with Perspex headbands and amulets that give a more futuristic look to the ensemble., Karan’s woman has to feel comfortable rather than challenged by her outfits, so the keyword here is not ‘envelope’, but rather ‘grace’ the feminine body.
Whence the just-below-the-knee length skirts and the ankle length swirling dresses, some of them balanced with short leather jackets to give the collection a less fluid mark., The outfits were truly exquisite, romantic and sophisticated. Splashes of lace and elements of transparency kept the vibe on the cutting edge between a old-world ladylike woman and a modern lady. For what accessories are concerned, they were quite essential. On one hand, a pair of ankle-tied wedges had the scene, combined with some Stephen Jones plastic headbands and cuffs. On the other hand, the only bag which had the good fortune to show off its handsomeness was a woven bag with Lucite handles. Fancy!, The runway was basic, ethereal to leave full room to the über chic dresses, but to catch the eye was also the daring and conflicting make-up.
A bright magenta eyeliner rounded the model’s eyes to charm the eye, like it was a mermaid bewitching the unguarded sailor. The strong contrast between pale colors in the garments and the magenta eyes was balanced by the super simple hairstyle chosen. The girls’ hair were thrown up into deliberately messy buns and completed with classy ribbons knotted into a bow., Donna Karan with her extraordinary ability to understand what women want -ability disguised as simplicity- took our breath away, again and again.
