Prabal Gurung New York Fashion Week S/S 2013
Through the ages women have come a long way towards achieving the ideals of freedom. Fashion designer Prabal Gurung takes their part and suggests that liberation and emancipation should start from the way ladies dress. That is why his spring/summer 2013 collection is all about comfortable clothes and self-confidence that comes as a result of dressing for yourself.
The designer cited contemporary artist Anish Kapoor as an inspiration for the next season. Merging East and West is what they both have in common and, if you are familiar with Kapoor’s work, the influence is evident – a cornflower blue dress over slim pants, spine print on several ensemles and many other similarities based on which one can draw a parallel between these two artists. In addition to this, Gurung also refers to something that has more sentimental value for him – the clothing item called kurta, that his mother and sister wore at home in Nepal. Some pieces resemble these traditional garments (women usually wear kurtas as blouses over trousers), as they were part of the outfits consisting of several layers.
Model Joan Smalls presented the opening look – an all-white combo that includes loose-fit trousers, an easy sheer blouse with long tail and stunning blazer, which is the bold “orchestra conductor“ moment right at the beginning of this fashion show. Subsequently, the impressive start was followed by the similar all-black tuxedo outfit, a dark variation on a theme which only confirmed that sometimes you can feel more free even if you are all covered up and more sexy even if you are wearing a tailcoat. We assume that is reason enough to be on Tilda Swinton’s radar.
This spring/summer line-up abounded in evening elegance, but it is still very unconventional due to some masculine and deconstructed pieces. Frocks maybe have tight bodices, but they are wide from the waist down and offer somehow different cocktail aestetic, unlike common curve-hugging apparel. The oversized statement shorts are cleverly juxtaposed with translucent blouses to keep the sensuality and soften the whole look. The designer threw in a touch of sportswear and scored with almost-gym shorts, silk sweatpants and neoprene sweatshirts. Apart from these aforementioned materials, chiffon, crepe, cotton, tulle and satin are extensively used, all in white, black, gray, red and soft blue, peppered with abstract and somewhat perplexing prints.
If you can read between the lines, you’ll notice a lot of hidden messages. For instance, an ordinary observer will see dresses adorned with feathers fluttering along the hemlines. But if you have the whole background idea of freedom on your mind, you won’t miss a brilliant comparison of a modern woman in the eyes of Prabal Gurung and animal which is said to be the least constrained.
