Francesco Scognamiglio Milan Fashion Week S/S 2013

Since his debut on the Milan fashion scene in 2001, Francesco Scognamiglio has played with different styles and silhouettes, but always managed to stay true to his genuine idea of what womenswear is all about. His woman personifies conceptual glamour – she is seductive and ethereal. And for the spring of 2013 she is no different. The inspiration for this collection was an alluring mixture of glamour and nostalgia. Scognamiglio described the woman seen in the latest fashion show as a 20th century aristocrat who travels to Provence in a hot-air balloon.

Pale hues and whisper-thin materials dominated the first part of the show. The designer presented long sleeved silk blouses adorned with lacy motifs, sheer lengthy skirts, high-waisted satin shorts, and an array of long dresses decorated with ruffles. Translucent materials refreshed the 20th century aesthetics and gave it a contemporary dose of sensuality. Some drama was added to the show as the darker notes started to conquer the catwalk. The color of the moment is now black while the silhouette remains mainly maxi. The collection retained its consistency as the designer enclosed the show with a range of flowy garments shown in baby blue. Throughout the collection, Scognamiglio insisted on feminine and romantic pieces with only a few promenades into the masculine world (we certainly can’t overlook the military coats and the powder blue pant suit that was very YSL). The designer redeemed the lack of jewelry with golden crystal-encrusted bird embroidery that seemingly complimented the outfits (and gave them that haute-couture feel).

The collection for the summer of 2013 can be perceived as designer’s game of conservative forms and sensual see-through materials, tactful polished hair and mysterious dark lips – the ultimate battle between naughty and nice. Which one will thrive? It is up to us to decide!

Ljubica Vidacic
05/10/2012