John Galliano Paris Fashion Week S/S 2013

For this fall season, Bill Gaytten introduced a dark, sinister collection with fetish-istic details earlier this year. Conversely, during the last month in Paris, the creative director of John Galliano presented softer and more romantic proposal for spring/summer 2013.

When you look at the color palette, everything seems much brighter than last time. Black and white pieces are actually in the minority next to different shades of blue, coral, grey and a touch of yellow. Interesting and enigmatic prints on several garments show piles of cars (or insane chain collisions) and a man with raised arm. We’re not sure what this all could mean, but it is possible that these motifs have some symbolic value for a designer who is trying to leave his mark on every new design and, at the same time, not to disappoint loyal fans of the brand and its stylistic history.

Draped layers of clothing, oversized shapes and materials that flutter around the silhouettes send us a fairytale vibe and enchanted messages. There is some exaggeration in volume, especially in coats in the form of poncho in which you can look like you’re wrapped in an enormous blanket. But, on the other hand, the balance was established with the lack of extras that would just burden those combinations. After all, Gaytten studied architecture – therefore his creative choices here are completely legitimate.

Bandeau tops are paired with wide-legged trousers and crumpled knee-length skirts. Obi-belts and kimono-inspired overlaps on the torso show that the East had a great influence during the last fashion month. Outstanding headpieces (made by Stephen Jones) that look like they were made of stacked flattened hats were the icing on this spring cake.

This collection is rich in innovative results and performances of different techniques such as draping, folding and creasing. This much dedication and creativity is nothing but Gaytten’s determination to rule the Galliano kingdom successfully.


 

Jelena Askovic
14/10/2012