Luís Buchinho Modalisboa S/S 2013
According to the Portuguese designer Luís Buchinho, next summer is ideal for those who live in a pink world. Shocking pink, to be precise.
This vibrant proposal for the upcoming season is rife with brave mix of strict and structured cuts and bright hues. The show opened with coral ensemble consisting of a two-tone jacket and wide shorts that resemble an urban mini skirt from every girl’s dream (and more mature ladies’ fantasies if they choose to look sexy and seductive). Jumpsuit and trouser suit with emphasized geometry and a touch of seriousness in tailoring are in contrast to the striking color. Transparent materials, metallics and architectural forms and details call attention to delicate sartorial techniques that are combined in a great way by this talented and widely recognized designer. We would highlight inevitable vertically pleating and less conventional horizontal creases on skirt and cigarette trousers.
After clothes in Barbie’s favorite color, the second part of the line-up with bold asymmetry ensued. One after another, color-blocked dresses with panels in different shapes and textures hit the runway. Various straps and cutouts are cleverly placed contributing to the authenticity of every clothing item. Whether it is the cocktail dress in earthy tones, floor-length gown or perhaps the most striking combination of black high-wasted shorts and a statement top, one gets the impression of unique garments that can’t go unnoticed, even when they are worn completely different than on the catwalk. Chiffon, silk taffeta, satin and stretch cotton contribute to the avant-garde elegance and femininity.
Looking at this collection from the beginning to the last look, it reminds us of the development path of a designer – from discovering their own distinctive design by experimenting in various fields to clearly conceptualized aesthetic which can often be very simple. That being said, Luís Buchinho scored with the minimalist finale and its white outfits. And who would have guessed judging by that tumultuous start?
