Ivan Grundahl Copenhagen AW 2013

An habitué of the Copenhagen catwalk, Ivan Grundahl‘s Autumn/Winter collection does not disappoint the high expectations for innovation. His extremely avant-garde looks composed of asymmetrical lines fused with uneven silhouettes make a come back with jackets, coats and jerseys. All the pieces follow a modern and edgy style dominated by dark colors, mostly black pulled alongside to blues, grays and military patterns, with only an occasional touch of color in the details.
The firmly established Scandinavian designer proposes soft suits and elegant combinations of loosely worn pullovers with long, flowy skirts. Many fresh and light materials like neoprene are used to accompany thicker wools, resulting in richly textured garments that look extremely sophisticated and smart yet comfortable to wear. Turtlenecks, belts, hoodies and pockets all complement the rough wintery style conceived by Grundahl, in a collection equally suitable for the young and mature women.

Every piece stands out from the rest thanks to a particular characteristic: a tulip dress of delicate taffeta with vertical stripes covering the front, an evening gown made up of glittery tulle from the waist down, a sweatshirt delicately knitted with intricate light pink roses. The attention also falls on the surreal Tim Burton style created for the wearers selected in the show: short, disheveled hairdos go along with thickly penciled eyebrows and a gaze completely covered by metal-blue round sunglasses.

A sober makeup neatly completes the extravagant look put together for the models and used to represent the fierce of Ivan Grundahl’s style. Fierce of which the designer makes open display in the closing catwalk entrance, where the elaborate clothes disappear to leave the elegant bodies covered in a simple and bleak ensemble of black transparent panty hoses, black spaghetti-strap top and black leather shoes.