With an economical recession affecting markets and feelings, a certain taste of nostalgia and melancholia may arise looking at the second collection designed by Alessandra Facchinetti for Tod’s. A celebration of an Italian bourgeois class of other times, the ostentation of the real made in Italy as it was, and as it no longer is, designed for an Italian signora, with no compromises to encounter the taste of the new-markets costumers. If Facchinetti talent is not under discussion, the message is clear and can function as an evaluating frame of the Milan Fashion Week: while the usual ones are exaggerating patterns and animal prints, losing lightness and taste in favor of a more ‘Russian’ approach, the young designers are experimenting and refreshing it all up.
Stella Jean is a light explosion of colors and ethnic prints, wide skirts and kimono jackets with a certain masculine twist. Bright colors and amplitude also at Fausto Puglisi, where the inspiration is more pop and iconic, with the statue of liberty print dominating the catwalk, and where the chromatic geometries recall the classical Pucci pattern. Daniele Carlotta’s lengths and volumes are the key elements for a glamorous and extroverted nightwear collection, while a bit of introspection is provided by Grinko, with a collection that invites to take a look into the inner self through dreamy and surrealistic characters, asymmetries and draperies.
The second day of Milan Fashion Week, Jeremy Scott created his first Moschino collection, and we saw it was good. Ironic and junk food-inspired, with a strong pop contamination and iconic pieces that seemed borrowed from the brand archives and history. On the same night, also Prada showed. Nobody noticed but, as usual, they all pretended they did.
Scuola Politecnica di Design
Academy of Design Australia
Shenkar
Beckmans College of Design
LOFT 42
Red Dot design award
