Exciting times lay ahead for men’s fashion! More and more young designers commit themselves to enriching the male fashion scene and it’s with great pleasure that we witness this change of pace and scenery. Out of this abundance of fresh creatives, Marc Stone grasped our attention with his volcanic Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

As Marc likes to put it, his work is his own way of processing all the external stimuli he is exposed to every single day. Through fashion, he can express all his fervent ideas about life, art, people; it’s his medium to dialogue with the world, exchange ideas and build something together with others. Drawing inspiration from other artistic fields, such as cinema, photography, music, theatre, he managed to develop a unique vision and style; his pieces embody the whole of his ever-changing unconventional reality and oh boy, it’s intriguing!

Following a minimalistic approach, the artist gently guides the viewers in his magical realm. With each collection he reveals more and more of an elegant, luxurious simplicity; his signature style can be labeled as refined, yet, chic and a tad futuristic. This collection is completely true to his personal aesthetic and makes a strong visual statement. Simple, exhibiting clean cuts and well-defined shapes, it gracefully enhances the wearer’s features and adds a twist of mystery. The details are the ones to mildly spice things up: hidden pockets, no zippers, Russian collars.

The color palette was carefully chosen, so as to turn the collection into a cohesive, powerfully seductive definition of masculinity. Dark grey, cement, steel nuances complement the structural shapes and the tight-fitting jackets. Warmer greens and lighter shades of grey provide a subtle note of delicacy and comfort, while the splash of acid orange makes for a fantastic final touch! This provides the collection with a ludic, playful type of sensuality.

Young Lisbon-based fashion designer Andreia Lexim wins praise for having presented several successful collections in a short period of time after finishing her studies in 2010. She cut her teeth in Kolovrat’s Concept store and worked with a theatre costume designer before showcasing her own concept through a series of statement clothes.

The core ideas that permeate through almost every piece that she has made are refined and cosmopolitan. Eastern and western influences, combined, are found in Lexim’s spring/summer 2012 proposal entitled “Innen“, which emphasizes the philosophy of our spiritual connection with nature. Garments in earthy tones made by using complex sartorial techniques refer to casual Buddhist robes and remind us of the idea that all things in the Universe are connected in some way.

Furthermore, the designer takes inspiration from the frequent occurrences in modern society and relationships between people of different cultures, and turns everything into an autumn/winter 2013 line-up named “No Land’s Man“. The notion of globalisation and the impact of tourism on the nomadic tribes of Arabia are woven into this collection and many pieces show how the tradition can adapt to the urban lifestyles. Crepe, knit and cotton were mainly used and the color palette was a little darker this time, with more items of clothing in black and dark blue.

“Canvas“ is Lexim’s latest offering intended for next summer. It is rife in bold geometric shapes, unexpected edges and game between all and nothing, full and empty, 2D and 3D. The designer opted for mostly monochromatic outfits with the exception of a few daring ensembles with a daring mix of red and blue, that in some places eventually merge into more powerful purple

Andreia Lexim was a participant in Portugal Fashion’s young designers platform called Bloom in 2011. She has left her mark in the shoe industry by making shoes for the spring/summer 2013 collection for a portuguese shoe brand. Bearing in mind her development path, she never ceases to surprise (although she is fairly new in the fashion world) and leaves us eagerly waiting for her next project.

Italy, France, California, New York, Tokyo. No matter where she has studied and worked, Manuela Di Prima has always carried her talent for fashion design, which is the epitome of a widely recognized Italian style. She founded Maison Di Prima in 2009 and, as its creative director, she manages to share her chic and romantic fashion dream.

The spring/summer 2013 collection draws inspiration from the European neoclassicism, which once revived the classical art and culture of Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome. That being said, the influence is more than obvious: fluttering bare-armed dresses resembling those famous Greek tunics dominate in this proposal. Silhouettes are feminine, seductive and provocative in a sophisticated way, and they come as a result of the perfect draping technique, mostly on silk chiffon in white, cream, navy, light pink and soft purple. There are no more than two hues on one piece and they are in clever contrast. Therefore, transparent navy frills look stunning on thicker orange fabric. Materials from Como were used for the sewing of each garment and it was all made in Italy (with love).

Many pieces are either plunging neckline or open-back gowns, and some of them even have stylish neck ruffles. Furthermore, what stands out here is a navy front and back plunging dress with gold antique brooch, a style that has not been overcome yet, although this aesthetic permeates through many centuries back. The designer played around a little with the asymmetry in some cuts, but especially in the shape of a floral wreath on an enchanting one-shoulder frock.

While still a student at Parsons, the New School for Design, in New York City, Di Prima made a small collection of jackets and showcased them during London fashion week. That was her springboard and, shortly after that, her clothes were worn by many prominent people in New York and her name and work appeared in various magazines, including the Italian Vogue.

This year’s Baltic Fashion Award had four recipients: Skörl, Kaseee, C-neeon, and Andrej Subarew. Their collections are as intriguing as their names, full of Northern promise and sensibility—we can always count on our boreal neighbors to hyper-stylize bulky winter apparel.

Opening the show at Riga Fashion Week was the work of young German designer Annalena Skörl Maul, from her hip-hop collection “Swagga.” Her weapon of choice is crochet, which may seem out of place in a hip-hop collection, but it actually harmonizes the baggy, casual look adding a bit of texture. Maul, noted for her sense of humor, crochets headphones, eyeglass frames, giant necklaces, and a skateboard harness. Youthful and sporty, the collection epitomizes comfort’s place in fashion.

Kaseee, a six-year-old enterprise from Apolda, Germany, is not as lax. Oblique lines feature prominently in these fitted garments with Samurai undertones. Blacks, browns, and grays are only ever challenged by a deep red or snow white. Founder Katrin Sergejew has won numerous European awards for her men and women’s collections, including a 2007 Baltic Fashion Award for the category of Avant-garde Woman.

Baroque and busy, C-neeon’s collection integrates knitwear into its diverse pool of textiles per outfit. Volume is apparent in the sleeves that end in pompom-like shreds, dense hoods, and layers of Mondrian patterns. Chaotic geometry is what Berlin duo Clara Leskovar and Doreen Shultz strive for in their bold designs. C-neeon has showrooms in Berlin, Paris, New York and Tokyo, and has had a run at London Fashion Week.

Militaristic punk is one way to describe the last collection of the show, the work of Baltic Fashion Award Art Director Andrej Subarew. Rigid forms are supplemented with leather and metal accessories—sometimes curiously gory ones, like a blood spatter cross-strap or scorpion pendants that hang at the end of elongated chains. The surprise of plaid reads like an allusion to Alexander McQueen’s infamous Highland Rape. Like McQueen, Subarew is fastidious about pattern cutting and proportion.

Pure, architectonic and accurate lines designed a relaxed but determined collection. A game of organic antagonias. Confident and light. Strong and naked; here accessories are not essential, nor needed, since every piece makes a statement for itself alone. Bare but complete, this collection is an homage to the core of the feminine lure, to a deep character filled with grace and good manners.
Neutral hues are harmoniously bounded to vibrant colors, as joyous jewel shades compliment crude dusty tones. An alluring game of colors and shapes resulting in a chic, timeless combination, honoring the Latvian traditions through linen, handmade on the original weaving looms.

Unequivocally versatile, it´s always possible to expect anything and still be pleasantly surprised. A camouflage inspired floral relied on a pajama- style shirt and pants combo, as an emerald green jumpsuit walked impetuously refined. Dainty colorful dresses stiffly flowed, paired unexpectedly with boots. Linen pants fitted impeccably; again formal, informal, expensive and easy. Here, boxy fits compliment the womanly silhouette and a raw overall is softened by the rare feature of sheer materials. The result is a measured look, suspended between sophisticated and street-style elements. The fabrics are folded, cut, and recomposed to shape both asymmetries and fractured lines.
There´s an easy mindset behind these combinations.

Whether relaxing in the countryside or frenetic in the city, Anna Led´s pieces can never go wrong. Feminine, simple yet appealing, whatever your style, your taste and your body. A cool and downtown chic style that incorporates and reinterprets the designer´s Baltic heritage.

The tense atmosphere caused by fast drum beats at the start of the fashion show made us think that there would be a lot of avant-garde and showy clothes. However, as soon as the lights came on and the first model stepped down the catwalk, a gentle beige surprise introduced us to the world of luxury and sophistication.

Ülle Suurhans-Pohjanheimo, the fabulous lady behind her namesake fashion house, leaves nothing to chance and this spring/summer proposal is full of pieces that have a distinct haute couture feel to them. The ease and extravagance conveyed by each garment give the impression of a resort collection. Varied cuts dominated here and there, and there was no shortage of stern hemlines in the very relaxed outfits. Classy knee-length cocktail dresses are cinched at the waist with satin straps and leather cords, just enough to create a sensual feminine silhouette. Necklines are subtle and mostly vintage, with the exception of a few frocks with deep provocative cleavage. Furthermore, coats are worn as dresses and that is something that always tickles our fancy.

Cigarette capris and masculine shorts are put next to the first-class blouses and together they contribute to the extravagant daywear. That being said, the designer has not neglected evening elegance, so there were long satin and glitter gowns fluttering around the body. Monochromatic ensembles are a small part of this line-up, while exquisite beige, navy, grey and pale pink items prevail.

Pohjanheimo Couture was opened in 1991 in Estonia and soon after the brand found its way, first to the fashion connoisseurs in the Baltic states and Scandinavia, and then to many fashionistas around the world. Bearing in mind that Ülle Suurhans-Pohjanheimo’s professional motto is “Advertising does not get you work – working with passion does“, her future customers know that they will have striking and unique clothing all to themselves.

The 17^th season of Riga Fashion Week kicked off at the Sky & More shopping mall where Estonian designer, Triinu Pungits, alongside fellow Latvian designers, showcased her capsule collection. For Pungits, the focal point of the collection was most certainly the coat. While the colors we’ve seen on the runway were rather dim (with a few unexpected pops of red), the forms were ranging from sharp masculine to voluminous feminine.

Pungits opened the show with her take on the classic contour of menswear coats. Blame it on the rich texture, asymmetrical buttoning or excellent tailoring, but the first piece was certainly an eye-catcher. The game of forms continued as the designer played with balloon silhouette adding some dramatic body to sleeves and waistlines of her coats. Finally, the two tendencies collided in a bright red piece that was something between a coat and a couture dress. Adorned with military straps and immense flower detailing, this was the piece that everyone was talking about. If we had to summarize the collection in only a few words, we’d say it was bold and couturesque with a hint of nostalgia.

If an Italian girl flies to Kiev for Fashion Days, chances are she will fall in love with the only Italian designer showing there.

This genuine made in Italy creator  took the audience for a romantic yet contemporary journey through the Apuan Alps and right into the splendor of the Tuscan Maremma in bloom. He took us with him in a  personal odyssey through the region’s unforgettable landscapes of hills and olive groves. He took me home.

A beautiful ensemble of fluid forms and essential shapes, inventive ways of cutting, built-up layers and de-structured elements, where the colors boss the show and speak the simple language of renaissance and nature: gypsum, wisteria, olive oil and, of course, black – the essential leitmotiv of all Petri creations.

Lamberto Petri collection for the next spring summer is a collection to live and to give life to. A catwalk that finds its place along a path of transition for the designer own career, providing a message for the ones that do not simply buy into fashion but who are, like Lamberto, engaged in a constant process of research and experimentation.

Is sky the limit? According to Anna October, an emerging Ukrainian designer whose talent seems to have no boundaries at all – no, but it can be part of an inspiration. Eternal landscape, voluptuous atmosphere and expanse of air: Anna wants it all, and staring  through the lenses of a digital binocular is able to experiment and distort this peaceful and sacred reality, painting the results on silks and cottons.

For a young and eclectic mind, a photo made with a broken camera or the bad pixelized images given from a poor internet connection during a Skype call could represent an original source of inspiration for a print pattern: the white and blue palette of the collection is contaminated with printed art works made in collaboration with the artist Dina Lynnik. On Mercedes Benz Kiev Fashion Days stage Anna October unveils a beautiful catwalk made of light weights and cloudy volumes of exceptional quality and precise tailoring that tells the story of a sophisticated contemporary Rosemary  Hoyt, a genuine creature who loves art and freshness.

Anna October Spring Summer 2013 collection IS the sky. Everything else – it’s just the weather.

There is nothing in a caterpillar that tells you it’s going to be a butterfly, but there’s something in Julia Paskal butterflies that tells us this adorable Ukranian girl is going to fly high in the luxurious sky of fashion.

For the next spring summer, on Mercedes Benz Kiev Fashion Days catwalk, a collection conceived on the nature of duality and of the harmony of opposites: living nature and inanimate world, chaos and order, symmetry and imbalance, that reflect on the textures combinations of matte and shiny, fine and rough fabrics, translucency and layering.

Insects are the main inspiration for the collection. The butterfly as a symbol of the divine, conversion and transformation. A beetle and a dragonfly, a bee and a fly to symbolize the opposition of tenderness and brutality, speed and slowness, in a beautiful collection that features sophisticated butterfly-shaped laser perforations that might become the designer signature for her eternal, strange, silent beauty.

Deriving from the Latin word “NULLUS,” literally meaning “not any,” NULLA by Kesic Petrushevski has historically used its name to inspire clothing conjured in nothingness yet realized in a timeless aesthetic sensibility. Square, by NULLA is certainly no exception to this idea. Minimalism is in a way at it’s best here, for not only are the clothes grounded in simplicity, they are unexpected in their flattery to the ambiguous body. There is a firm balance between thin and thick fabrics, structure and drapery, and smooth and textured surfaces. Leather plays an essential role in the conversation between the expected and unexpected as a seemingly seamless wool vest plays off of a deliciously provocative front-zipper leather shirt. A tummy-revealing poncho-jacket displays exquisite detail as leather is gathered into silk-like ripples. And classical elegance, utility, and a certain mysterious sex appeal are united in a one-piece jumpsuit that redefines the stereotypical street-style, “fashion forward” onesie.

Often gaining inspiration from simple, geometric forms, the design team of Jelena Kesic and Bojan Petrushevski decided that the deceivingly challenging shape of a square would drive the structure behind all of the pieces in this collection. However, when considering a square, one usually would not think of the elegant movement, curvilinear flow, or contoured lines, which are present throughout the collection. Yet somehow Kesic Petrushevski dispels all preconceptions of what this wonderful shape can do. While the square is classically used in minimalist collections through color blocking, or boxy sack-like looks, NULLA transforms this otherwise rigid shape into one which works with the natural structure of the body. Present in the form of pleats, lines, and physical pattern structure, the square takes a step further, turning on a diagonal and creating what one could call the minimalist flounce. The cleverness with which Kesic Petrushevski uses the square renders color unnecessary. Black and white is no longer a cliché, but is instead the perfect platform to showcase the ability of fabric to transform the body. It is a breath of fresh air to observe a collection that is thought provoking, yet easy on the mind, chic yet relatable, fashion forward yet useful, well rounded in its variety, yet always pointing back to a square.

A scenario illuminated by a sole line of light sections, where only the essential and the necessary could be seen. A hauntingly beautiful parade started to the sound of timid trembling little bells. A Coney Island of the mind, a kind of circus of the soul. Inspiring, serene. A surreal journey through romantic hues and lace, honoring Ono´s signature. Beautiful models walked, each carrying an outfit, then leaving it behind, displayed to the attentive eyes that witnessed the uncommon spectacle.

Yet I have slept with beauty, in my own weird way. The dramatic style and the interesting concept did not withdraw the carefree, delicate character of the collection. The woman presented by Motonari Ono defined an image of bubbly, endowed with magic femininity and oriental graciousness, through a palette of champagne and dusty rose. Dark purples, blues and blacks added depth, giving the memorable pieces versatility, showing the designers understanding of his ever broadening appeal to many different women.

And if I traveled the leaves, coloring the branches… Short peplum adorned floral dresses were kept silent and discrete, whilst knee and calf length romantic dresses, replete with ruffles, danced nostalgically through the runway.  Chiffon came as refined long sleeved dresses and lace robes stormed, lustful and confident, as a pleasant explosion of ravishing red.

Tales of solemn grace were told. The mood is decidedly contemporary however timeless; young yet ageless. The well- mannered tone of the clothes does not hide the precise cuts and the impeccably tailored silhouettes, evidence of the traditional Japanese perfectionism.

Motonari Ono created for this Spring an unveil of sensations, where each piece became a different feeling.

When Lady gaga stepped out onto the stage in 2010 wearing a crystal-laden graphic cat-suit and heel-less wedges that would make any shoe fanatic such as myself do a double take, the world was dying to know who she was wearing. Tamae Hirokawa, the designer behind these embroidered wonders of the fashion world, has since then taken her already acclaimed brand, Somarta to new levels, breaking boundaries with each show she sends down the runway. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that Somarta is yet again one of the highlights of Tokyo Fashion Week. For SS2013 Hirokawa takes the viewer on a journey through a secret, art nouveao garden throughout which the designer’s signature textured tights ground each look. Although the collection strayed away from the multi-layered crystal embroidery of the cat-suit era, there was definitely no lack in sparkle, opulence, or luxury.

Hirokawa first established herself as a force in the fashion world when she left Issey Miyake Co. to launch her own design firm, Soma Designs in 2006. She then stepped onto her own runway in 2007 with a Spring/Summer collection that landed her the Newcomer’s Prize at Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix. Year after year, Somarta shows up with the latest in textile technology combined with Tamae Hirokawa’s fashion-forward vision. This year, the Somarta SS2013 show at Tokyo Fashion week displays a mature body of work exemplary of the brand’s continuing growth.

Modeling a whimsical, embroidered jacket, an ultra-feminine pearl necklace, and a waist-synching belt, the first of 37 lovely looks makes its way down the minimal runway. A plethora of variations on the shift and baby-doll dresses unify the collection, but Tamae Hirokawa’s flawless attention to detail sustains our interest as unique patterns and textures capture the eye. A panel of art nouveao embroidery in ivory enhances a silk shift in eggshell blue while a structured, neckpiece of white silk leaves juxtaposes the ultra-fem, simple shape completing the look. And just when we thought the lace trend was on its way out, Hirokawa glorifies the timelessness of its texture and beauty through delicate shorts layered under graphic silk blouses and structured jackets. As the looks develop out of soft pastels and embroidered Capri pants into deep, royal blues, mossy greens, and boldly ornate patterns, the collection takes an imaginative twist into a deeper land of botanical fantasy. Nymph-like silk robes are laden with nouveao imagery, which continues down into the ever-uniquely textured trademark tights. Everything in the collection seemed to breathe with a contemporary yet regal airiness, a theme which came to life in one mesmerizing look created with shimmering strips of electric blue silk chiffon.

Tamae Hirokawa maintains a unique presence in the world of Japanese fashion as her work is conceptually and thematically driven. There is a definite narrative that accompanies the models down the runway at each of her shows. Like Issey Miyake, Hirokawa is known for using the advanced textile technology Japan has to offer, and while this current collection is no exception to the rule, the designer’s usual avant-garde presentation is somewhat subdued in a timeless fairytale.

Yu Amatsu is one of the most exciting things to happen on the panorama of global emerging designers in the last five years. 
After debuting in 2010 with an A/W collection during Tokyo Fashion Week, this Japanese designer confidently announced himself through his designs as a promising and budding name in the fashion industry.

After studying design in Tokyo and working as a free-lance costume designer for several years, Yu Amatsu went on to conquer  New York where he became a pattern maker for renown brands such as Marc Jacobs and Yen Kao. He raised many eyebrows and attracted international attention after winning the Gen Art International Design Competition two years in a row, a symbolic and life-changing achievement. Shortly thereafter, the ambitious designer returned to Japan where thoughts of his own collection started brewing in his mind .
The desire toexpress himself as an independent and self-reliant designer lead Amatsu to the creation of A Degree Fahrenheit and has presented its fourth collection for the Spring/Summer last week in Tokyo.

Amatsu’s 2013 S/S proposal was composed of 28 stunning total-white looks – perhaps as a counter argument to balance the total-black trend that’s dominating our current Fall/Winter season. As the presentation was unified through the dominant color, it was equally diversified through the interesting use of different materials and textures to add depth to each design. The smart use of cottons, linens, fleece and mesh added to the airy quality of the loose silhouettes which looked extremely comfortable, yet definitively not lacking in structure. The trends that were highlighted during the show included laser-cut swimsuits merged with light shirt dresses or tight cigarette trousers, and the clever mix of draping upon a highly fitted feminine forms (think, lightly cinched waistlines with intricate volumes defining key parts of the female body). Overall the collection is extremely wearable with the right levels of avant-garde, even for the most classic of women.

The woman Amatsu wants to project is modern, young, energetic, and unafraid to take her own place in society. The garments he has fabricated perfectly complements this idea.  Discreet European styles, unusual cuts, dynamic silhouettes are distinctive features of Yu Amatsu, and the high quality of his collections have already received praise and respect of his customers, followers and fellow designers from around the world.

Design team/married couple Ankur and Priyanka Modi delivered a classic and wearable SS13 am:pm women’s wear collection at Willis Lifestyle India Fashion Week. Known for their well-tailored garments accented with traditional printing and embroidery methods, the Modis create elegant, timeless pieces that are both demure and fresh.

In the SS13 am:pm collection, Ankur and Priyanka Modi outfit their models in sweet collared dresses and tops that exemplify the company’s name—am:pm, or day to night. For every traditional shirt collar, the designer duo adds a surprising element: take, for instance, the white silk shirt with the black stripe down the breastbone, or the silver and white shirtdress that has a collar adorned with printed wings. Their collar work is not, however, limited to the traditional shirt collar style. Two of the looks feature jackets with high collars paired with floor-length skirts, each piece rendered in beautiful, and substantial textiles.

The most striking looks in the collection were two floor-length black ensembles. First, a belted vest paired with a white collar and maxi-length grid-patterned skirt that paired together recall the English countryside. And second, an all black silk dress, architectural in shape and featuring a printed image on the bodice. The look is both stunning and haunting for its perfect tailoring and gorgeous shape.

Every look in the SS13 am:pm collection feels current and charming. The couple’s signature craftsmanship and detailing rejuvenate the collar-centric looks of the past few seasons, and renew a sense of elegance to the ever-popular maxi skirt.

An opulent remiscence of the sea and all of its hues, in the consciousness of the passing hour.  Soft shades paraded through the runway, bringing to life Gaurav & Ritika´s Spring Summer 2013 collection and earning the title Ebb and Flow.

From the ethereal white to laureal green, passing by the delicacy of light hues of blue and eventually giving way to a solemn brown and to the depth of grey, sighting splashes of metallics, gold or silver, reflecting the last rays of sunshine or the first glimmer of moonlight. There is a present idea of lightness and softness as well as of the mystery and profoundness of the ocean, savored from the areal, aiming for the sunset and the mystic of the night.

The unique duo´s aesthetic remains innovatively untouchable; Gaurav and Ritika maintained their signature graphics: bold colors and origami excesses. Asymmetric panels, deconstruction and layering are inspired by the collage technique and translated in patchworks of fabrics and contrasts of textures, and the use of colour block and sheer materials nods to athletic wear.  Feminine silhouettes were shown as soft and straight, flowing and draped, where skirts hit below the knee and were in parts oversized. Slits lingered mid thigh, sexing up colorblock, floor length gowns, as a pair of tailored, high- waisted trousers walked beautifully down the runway.

Absorbing their inspiration out of events, people and everything mundane, the collection gains an additional commercial value, however never losing its contemporary and urban lines, devoid of everything conventional, channeling the industrial chaos of modern cities. Through all collections, it is possible to enjoy a dynamic identity, both explorative and creative, similar in its construction, distinguished in the story that is told. What keeps them intrinsically attached? The ever- changing, under- construction Delhi, that created the architectural element that remained the essential Gaurav & Ritika signature.

Is there anything better than daydreaming, as a form of escapism, from our often demanding and stressful environment? We all do that sometimes, don’t we? But the real joy comes when we are able to live our dreams, and therefore we chose to bring you closer to this stunning spring/summer 2013 collection that came as a result of putting fantasies into daywear.

Hiroshi Takizawa and Sho Iwata are the two men behind the brand Tiit and its creative concept “Imagined dream of daily life”. And this line-up is exactly like that – wearable, attractive and adaptable to many occasions in a woman’s life. Aesthetics is not that closely related to the East, since it’s more cosmopolitan and extends to all stylish ladies. Silhouettes are relaxed and spontaneous thanks to flowing shirtdresses, wide midi frocks and loose tunics. Shirt elements dominate in many pieces and here we can often see buttoning and different types of collars (reminiscent of our school uniform days). The necks are set high because the plunging effect would not be in line with cuts and purpose of these garments.

Trousers reach the ankles and they are very chic and nonchalant while paired up with fashion forward tops. Long statement vests with side ruffles bring a little romance into rather avant-garde combinations. Probably the cutest parts of this proposal, a T-shirt and a blouse with rabbit and owl applications, were used to soften the impression (sometimes, all we need is that childish and foolish vibe).

Colors were put next to each other so that they could create a perfect harmony. Although there were many monochromatic looks, blue, yellow, red, violet and green were added like piquant spices.

Throughout this fashion show, the background music was reminiscent of a soothing lullaby. That being said, not only that Tiit’s summer offering didn’t lull us to sleep, on the contrary – all our senses were awakened.

Just this past week at MODALisboa PULSE, Aleksandar Protic showed his Summer 2013 collection – a ravishing show of warrior elegance and strength in leather, silk, and linen.

Protic drew his inspiration for this show from the Yugoslavian graphic novelist Enki Bilal’s female characters, warriors between the worlds within and without. The silhouette featured drop waists, long skirts, and samurai-esque thick leather belts – accentuating the waist and profile on the runway. All the women wore slicked back hair, their faces sharp and strong while framed by the movable yet architectural structures. Where triangular cuts and folds held the dresses and shirts onto the shoulders, the use of golden and white linen, as well as silk, allowed the fabrics to flow down, creating movement like that of the wind blowing. These outfits would be equally at home on a dusty, windy, sand-covered foreign planet – as well as in a dirty and over-populated futuristic city like L.A. in Blade Runner. But the woman in clothing was always the same, strong, sleek, edgy, modern – a quietly intense warrior.

With fashion everything comes around a second time, reinvented and rethought, and Protic’s collection this spring called across multiple cultures for it’s sleek shapes, fabrics, and concepts. Drawing from all to foresee the future, the collections muted and bright, sharp and flowing selection of outfits showed us both sides of the warrior – the soft that needs the bold.

Fashion is about attitude, not hemlines. Marques`Almeida team has created a whole new concept of denim throughout their avant- garde, very Helmut Lang school vision. Undone and unfinished, yet so cool. Being known for last season’s ripped, shredded and poked holes in jeans, showing a lot of thigh and oozing the kind of coolness only grunge can give, the brand accomplished to establish several stores in fashion cities all around the globe like New York, Hong Kong, Beijing and Tokyo.

This year, they continued with “their” theme: pushing themselves further through exploring different fabrics, polishing their essentially raw creations, and blending rough denim with crude cottons and chiffon that are softened by the light elegance of dancing silk, or comfortably wrapped in knits.

Fresh faced girls, gifted with an irresistible nonchalant attitude,  walked exuding a screaming 90´s teen spirit. Laid back sex appeal, these overboard and self assured grunge royals wore spaghetti strap dresses that fell away from the body as over sized tops that boasted sheer panels or open knits.

Asymmetrical everything. Asymmetrical ripped denim tops with matching bottoms, and some skirts were graced with sheer silk underneath. Denim dresses and skirts flaunted flower appliqués, supported by chunky flat sandals, strappy heels and cut- off rubbery boots. A decorous lilac tulle caresses cotton coats, adorning with simplicity and suavity the unconcerned style, giving it a feminine, delicate feel. Even more lilac poured by sheer silk fabric, layered over knee length shorts, where edges were raw, with an insignificant finished hem in sight.

Spontaneously slouchy and athletic silhouettes with a sporty singularity brought a wet feel that resulted in a coherent collection: where a minimalistic look is added to a sophisticated street style, whilst maintaining a simultaneously creative, feminine and accessible touch. The two designers´ aesthetic may evoke raw effortlessness and an essentially young streetstyle concept, but they sure know how to conquer a woman´s heart. Shapeless pieces that compliment feminine contours; after all, isn´t it a shared desire, to feel, seem and be naively fascinating?

The Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa once said, “I feel as if I’m always on the verge of waking up.” Fast forward to Lisbon one hundred years later. You eat caldo verde. You walk hilly streets. And you watch a fashion show in which each outfit looks like it is on the verge of waking up: half-peplums, translucent fabrics, and glamorized bed hair give MMC Design Studio’s Summer 2013 collection a poetic, liminal boldness.

When I call the collection liminal, what I am referring to is how well the designers juxtapose delicate fabrics, like chiffon and extra thin nylon, with hardier ones, like leather and jacquard. Starchy silk and leather inlets sharpen the angularity that defines most of the attire in this collection. Though it is a summer line, the insulated, quilted pattern you would normally find on down jackets appears a few times—an echo of winter, or another way the designers reconfigure our conceptions of what fabrics or patterns match one another.

Subdued yellows and pinks add a touch of color to the largely black, white, and grey palate. Many of the bottoms have deep pockets that the models can sink their forearms into, making the pockets look like gloves or additional sleeves. “For the inspiration,” MMC Design Studio writes, “we’ve searched for classics with the 40’s twist mixed with endure sports and eccentric PJ Harvey’s style.” Perhaps on the verge of waking up, some of the previous night’s dreams remained on their minds.

Eminent Polish fashion designers Ilona Majer and Rafal Michalak guest designed MMC Design Studio’s Summer 2013 collection. The duo’s work has wowed audiences in Madrid, Moscow, New York, and now, Lisbon. MMC Design Studio was created in 1996 by a group of Strzeminski Academy of Art and Design alumni. The studio is known for using experimental fabrics but maintaining a simple, classic style.

According to the Portuguese designer Luís Buchinho, next summer is ideal for those who live in a pink world. Shocking pink, to be precise.

This vibrant proposal for the upcoming season is rife with brave mix of strict and structured cuts and bright hues. The show opened with coral ensemble consisting of a two-tone jacket and wide shorts that resemble an urban mini skirt from every girl’s dream (and more mature ladies’ fantasies if they choose to look sexy and seductive). Jumpsuit and trouser suit with emphasized geometry and a touch of seriousness in tailoring are in contrast to the striking color. Transparent materials, metallics and architectural forms and details call attention to delicate sartorial techniques that are combined in a great way by this talented and widely recognized designer. We would highlight inevitable vertically pleating and less conventional horizontal creases on skirt and cigarette trousers.

After clothes in Barbie’s favorite color, the second part of the line-up with bold asymmetry ensued. One after another, color-blocked dresses with panels in different shapes and textures hit the runway. Various straps and cutouts are cleverly placed contributing to the authenticity of every clothing item. Whether it is the cocktail dress in earthy tones, floor-length gown or perhaps the most striking combination of black high-wasted shorts and a statement top, one gets the impression of unique garments that can’t go unnoticed, even when they are worn completely different than on the catwalk. Chiffon, silk taffeta, satin and stretch cotton contribute to the avant-garde elegance and femininity.

Looking at this collection from the beginning to the last look, it reminds us of the development path of a designer – from discovering their own distinctive design by experimenting in various fields to clearly conceptualized aesthetic which can often be very simple. That being said, Luís Buchinho scored with the minimalist finale and its white outfits. And who would have guessed judging by that tumultuous start?

If you hadn’t heard of Anthony Vaccarello before, you definitely heard of him after Anja Rubik’s exposed hip. The hip, that is, that put Angelina Jolie’s bare leg to shame when it protruded from Rubik’s white Anthony Vaccarello dress at the 2012 Met Gala.

For the brave and body-baring, Vaccarello designs provocative pieces that one could just as easily find in an editorial (Harper’s Bazaar Spain, for instance) as on a luxe party girl in New York’s Meatpacking District. Said party girl would have to be exceptionally luxe, though: Vaccarello has said he prefers to have his clothes stocked in no more than one store per city, with thirteen pieces max per store. His pieces may be difficult to find, but once you know the Paris-based Belgian designer’s work, it’s impossible to miss.

Vaccarello cited the image of a fully clothed woman emerging from water, clothes clinging to her form, as inspiration for his SS13 collection. This inspiration is particularly identifiable in the collection’s eveningwear. Vaccarello’s models strode down the runway in form-fitting miniskirts that brought to mind something like Grecian draping-meets-bondage. The idea here, it seems, is power and sexual authority. The skirts featured curved slits that brought the eye up the models’ thighs, each skirt roughened by zipper-detailing on the hips. Eveningwear pieces were mostly in black and white, although later in the show Vaccarello introduced fluid lamés, and copper- and teal-patterned textiles that suggested a continuation of this fall’s brocade and pattern-work trends.

A black and white palette permeated Vaccarello’s SS13 daywear pieces, as well.  Many of the looks included drop waist wide-legged pants that were impressive for their silky movement. The pants were decorated with grommets at the waistband, which aesthetically unified them with scout uniform-inspired tops.

Anja Rubik started and finished the show, opening in a strong blazer-trouser pairing and closing in a compellingly sexy black billowing silk dress with Vaccarello’s trademark slit. Power is apparent in Vaccarello’s SS13 collection, and in both his opening and closing looks it is clear that Vaccarello prefers a kind of sexual power that grips you, from which you can’t turn away.

Exaltation of the feminine body through simplicity: this has always been a mantra for the French house, and the Spring Summer ’13 collection simply replicates this dictat through the (not easy) attempt to match modernity with the timeless main traits of the house.

This rapid shift towards innovativeness has probably been driven by the recent designer’s change at Vionnet house itself: as a matter of fact, the Croce sisters, substitutes of Rudy Paglialunga, have been substituted in turn, after just one runway season, by the new creative director, and new company’s owner, Goga Ashkenazi. A major shift in propriety, but above all in artistic approach. Nevertheless, looking at the collection, no intention of subverting the traditional style of the house can be traced.

Despite the recent drop in interest of customers towards this centenary brand, the concept of lightness and delicate embracement of the human body, exalted through the application of asymmetric necklines, the draped square cuts, have not been abandoned, at all. The golden years of the first bias cut dresses, glorious sign of liberation from the trap of the corsetry, seem quite distant, but Ashkenazi has strived hard to repropose the main codes associated with Vionnet’s name in her first collection with the brand.
Neutral black and white morbid fabrics totally leave the scene to a complex game of asymmetric cuts applied on every single garment: lightness is a constant sensation that comes to mind while observing the outfits. Sheer chiffons and georgettes, as well as long dresses, are given a modern and dynamic look, with sculptural shapes that lie down with delicacy on the body, and with surprising pants that peep out under open skirts.

The fashion show is closed by a series of five light red dresses that dramatically interrupt the neutral calm of the previous outfits. Nevertheless, asymmetry is still present in every garment, and the morbid look it gives to clothes partially dims the sensuality of the warm color of fabrics. Ethereal: this is definitely the appropriate definition of the collection, a good balance between tradition and innovation. But maybe a real attraction for new customers would need a boost towards something more… revolutionary.