Laura Biagiotti F/W 11-12
For next winter, Laura Biagiotti restyles impressions of the Risorgimento, validating women’s pivotal role in society, today as yesterday, through her dress style, too. Biagiotti composes a HYMN TO FASHION and dedicates the collection to the impassioned women upholders of the struggle for independence and to all the female dynamism that contributes in a constructive role, day after day, to Italy’s greatness. And so the catwalk showcases Garibaldi red in shades from vermillion to purple, the Anita poncho in jacquard patchwork cashmere, the draped dresses of free women. The knitted or woven jacket-scarf is a key item, as well as the riding outfit with a blouse and plus-fours. The palette’s main shades are Biagiotti White and the blacks and greys of the Carbonari together with forest shades interpreted in a symphony of browns and deep greens, or in berry tones from blackcurrant to raspberry. The trend is for clothes that give the body greater freedom of movement: light cashmere or silk dresses, weighing just over 100 grams, with translucent sheerness in tulle, worn with long, leather gloves.
Passementerie, lace inlays and appliqués galore. Revisitation and cross-fertilisation: the redingote, originally created as a riding jacket, is in reversible brown cashmere. The waistcoat shapes the torso and gives a finishing touch to the look, both in the cashmere or embroidered or the fur versions. Prince of Wales check double-breasted jacket with red bugle-bead edging and with a mohair-and-studs frog, studs being a key detail of the season. The large, enveloping coat is fastened at the waist by a tiny, studded belt. Dresses are draped and melt into romantic flounces, with graceful, seductive asymmetry at the neckline or hips. Whalebones make their appearance; they give a bold touch to the draping of the flowing dress. Print motifs nod in the direction of Art Nouveau or to the Orientalism of the poet Gabriele D’Annunzio’s Vittoriale, or geometric shapes created in ample brushstrokes. Layering of knitted and woven fabrics blossoms in embroidered tulle flower corollas. The cabled cashmere dress-sculpture is calf-length. Inlays of lace and pearls embellish cashmere twinsets. The Florentine lily appears on the severe jacket embroidered with maxi stones. Motifs and fabrics are often borrowed from the male wardrobe, but revisited with a very feminine touch, such as the houndstooth check in acid tones of citron yellow. Delicate shading on chiffon whispers of pleasurable seduction, while oro alla patria (“gold for the mother country”) draws the attention to exquisite dresses which celebrate the victory.
Accessories and details in horsewoman-chic style: the shopping bag – with or without embroidery – can be turned into a pochette with a shoulder strap. The leather bracelet and thin belts are decorated with studs. Boots are in the riding style, high, and with spurs. Shaded glasses with gradient-shade lenses hide the eyes, as does the man’s hat.
Italy is female, as seen in the official iconography of the Republic, which is represented by a woman with a turreted crown on her head. Within the frame of the exploits which led to the Unity of Italy, women performed acts of great courage and enterprise, validating, through their dress style, too, a new status symbol.
Laura Biagiotti Occhiali by Sover – Laura Biagiotti Borse by Brands & Distributions –
Laura Biagiotti Calzature by Uno – Laura Biagiotti Cinture by Cinturificio Bresciano
Hair by Paolo Di Pofi & Mitù for Wella Professionals
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