It is a great refreshment when designers remind us that leather can be used in collections that feature light and summer looks. London based womenswear designer, Poppy Totman, is one of those creative visionaries who said ‘no’ to heavy black leather coats. Instead, she decided on white and light mint color palette, successfully combining pieces for her graduate collection named ‘’La Belle Dame Sans Merci’’.

Almost every garment is adorned with different detailing: statement white coat with perforated sleeves, knitted dress completed with light mint round neckline and other striking pieces covered in white leather straps. Walking down the catwalk, models presented stunning design, looking like the sisters of a femme fatale who decided to outdo her by wearing white in lieu of black. Totman’s risk-taking clothes claim to become objects of desire of anyone who prefers edgy and distinctive style. All in all, this collection is a successful outcome of designer’s thinking out of the box.

Poppy Totman graduated from the University of Westminster in 2012. She gained work experience at Felder Felder, Topshop and Clare Tough. Given that her creations are elegant yet innovative, modern and sophisticated women can be considered as her target group.

One of the latest discoveries promoted on muuse.com, the cult platform where the best emerging fashion designers sell their limited edition collections, is Yunjie Mok. A young Korean that has moved to London to enroll at the London College of Fashion and enjoy the frenetic lifestyle of the British metropolis, drawing the inspiration from this cradle of cultures and nationalities for her own creations.

Despite her young age, the distinctive traits of Mok’s philosophy are yet markedly reflected in the well-defined style of her creations: what immediately comes to mind looking at her work is the perpetual search for unpredictability, for something always beyond any standard, which does not prejudge a constant prominence attributed to feminine beauty. Delicate shapes and futuristic details perfectly merge and the innovative mixtures of different kinds of textures come to define new forms of silhouettes: unusual outfits that drastically transform the human body.

The break-through innovation conceived by this designer has been recently translated in an amazing collection that is composed by a limited number of tailor-made tangible pieces of art. The modest variety of clothes composing this collection is offset by its incredible inventive power, which starts from the emblematic denomination, “Space perception”. The basic concept of this masterpiece is a study of how the space enhances the appearance of every human being: according to Mok’s idea, the perception of space in our minds is totally subjective, since everyone is more attracted by some objects rather than others. The aim of this collection, therefore, is trying to show how different perceptions of space can determine different body shapes, which are transferred into fashion design.

The different mixes of materials used accentuate the effects of motion: the digital print applied in all garments has been created with a particular process of reflection and distortion of the ladder, an appropriate and effective representation of movement. Furthermore, the application of different prints on each outfit creates a continuum of shapes and colors that emphasize the human body. The prevailing fabric of this collection is metallic leather, which gives a touch of modernity to outfits that, otherwise, would be extremely delicate and romantic, due to the prevailing usage of pastel colored garment fabric, chosen by the designer to keep the body as natural as possible.

Even if it is quite hard to foresee the prospective artistic path of this emerging talent, one thing is for sure: Yunjie Mok ‘s alternative and ambitious way to enhance appearance is contributing to the definition of a modern standard of beauty; without any doubt, just the beginning of her revolution.

Handbag designer Volker Koch is one of the finalists in the design of fashion accessories at this year’s International Talent Support (ITS). His collection ‘Sumbawanga Trail’ drew inspiration from designer’s stay on the African continent lasting several years and primal forms, such as the hand axe, the grindstone and the stele. The designer was also inspired by the findings of the late mathematician August Ferdinand Moebius.

At first glance, the handbags in this collection show great affection for nature and African culture. The pieces have been moulded and hand-stiched using vegetable-tanned leather and, although they’re not rich in details, their form is what distinguishes them from other conventional models. These bags are comfortable on the shoulder or in hand and they’re very functional. Some of them are designed so that if they were placed somewhere, they would look as unique sculptures and it would be hard to guess that they are actually accessories. This is what gives artistic value to this collection and, therefore, the designer deserves to be in the finals of this competition.

Volker Koch is German handbag designer with specific knowledge in working with exotic skins (crocodile, ostrich, snake, lizard). He worked in fashion houses in Germany and France, including the reputable Hermès. After 13 years in Africa, Koch decided to take professional development and to do an MA in Fashion Artifacts at the London College of Fashion.

Although there is much one can say about Lie Sang Bong, there is still a peculiar shroud of mystery that envelops this Paris based Korean designer. We can recount morsels of his biography, like how he was a theatrical actor in his twenties or how his award winning fashion debut in 1983 was only the beginning of this story the world has been partaking in, but that would only be a superficial disclosure of the man’s life.

Throughout his maturing collections, the audience has always immediately recognized his incredible craftsmanship entwined with a consistent remarkable vision and limitless creativity at the base of his work. His themes seem to go beyond the traditional ambitions of fashion, by virtue of a vision that includes the beauty of aesthetics and the practical aspect of reality. Timeless images of film noir heroines, Cubism, Bauhaus designs, even the love story between Napoleon and Josephine, as well as Korean calligraphy and poetry -these ideas and images have infused Lie Sang Bong’s designs with unrivaled human emotions and ingenious fashions.
Nevertheless, his astounding creations emphasize the importance of extremely feminine silhouettes and a harmonization of cultures. More specifically, a harmonization of chic French fashions and rich Oriental aesthetics. This combination, and its subsequent result, can be said to fit within the realms of art and visual poetry; where each piece reveals the essence of true sophistication within the designer’s expressive mind and eliminates any cultural anxieties .

His latest collection, showcased during Seoul Fashion Week, was inspired by Dol Dam -the Korean technique of constructing walls with different stones. The reinterpretation of this architectural technique combined high quality fabrics like fur, silk, leather and wool in clean-lined shapes defined by perfect tailoring. The three dimensional embroideries came to life within their geometric motifs upon a colorful palette which included the rich yet sombre colors of autumn with splashes of burgundy, imperial blue and hues of pink.
Although the fashion industry is what may have, rightfully, granted Sang Bong his fame, we must nevertheless remember that this man is above all else an artist. He has collaborated with numerous companies and brands to create limited editions of his works of interior design, computers, cellphones and so forth. He has also exhibited his works representing fashion as an art in solo and group exhibitions around the world.

It seems as though fashion provides Lie Sang Bong with a conduit for the conceptual expression of culturally conscious themes. The world’s most famous Korean fashion designer keeps on granting moments of mute encounters with his astounding accomplishments, which provoke powerful, intuitive emotions to all those who are willing to look beyond the superficial.

Everyone has been talking about Iris Van Herpen lately. As a matter of fact, the 27 year old Dutch designer has a beautiful career -and yet, this is just the start.
After graduating from the ArtEZ Institute of Arts in 2006, she has been working for many designers (Alexander McQueen and Viktor & Rolf being some of them). In 2007, she decided to start her own label. She has been the winner of many fashion and designing awards (such as the Dutch Fashion Awards and  the RADO Young Designer Awards). Last year, she became a member of the very prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

Her creations are real pieces of art, characterized by amazing handcrafting skills, cutting-edge technologies and very innovative sculptural shapes. Many celebrities and icons, like Lady Gaga and Björk  have adopted her creations.

For all the reasons above, the Groninger Museum in Amsterdam, which has held exhibitions about Azzedine Alaïa, Comme des Garçons, Viktor & Rolf and Hussein Chalayan among others, is presenting the first large-scale solo exhibition of her work. The Museum, which is promoting creativity in connection with fashion, has selected many key pieces of Iris’ creations and exhibits as an overview of her work since 2008.

Furthermore, a catalogue, which includes all of her collections, has been made to accompany the exhibition. The latter has been compiled by Sue-an van der Zijp, curator of present-day art and Mark Wilson, chief curator.
Audiences, aficionados and fans have until the 23 September 2012 to discover it!

The label name Liberum Arbitrium, Latin for “Free Will“, already reveals part of the thought behind the quite recently established brand by the Japanese designer Shinsuke Mitsouka. Good versus evil, the philosophy behind the brand name represents the ability to make choices free from certain constraints – a topic originally debated heavily in philosophy. Fascinated by the sound and the deep meaning of the dead language, the young designer decided to give his label a Latin name already back when he was designing his graduate collection.

Attending a design school in Japan were the very first steps of Shinsuke Mitsouka’s career path. However, his major turning point was winning a Japanese fashion competition that made him fully realize his dreams of becoming a designer. After graduating from Nottingham Trent University, he moved to Paris for an Internship at Gustavo Lins Couture Maison. Having done that, his career proceeded fast: almost at the same time he was offered to design a costume for Black Eyed Peas front singer Fergie, whilst  “Blow Presents” (a UK PR company) gave him the opportunity to do a show at London Fashion Week 2012 S/S. Naturally this was the perfect opportunity to start his very own label – Liberum Arbitrium.

Even though his three collections are very different in terms of fabrics and cuts, we can see the original intention of creating fashion not subject to any constraints in all of them. In his most recent collection “Ghost”, he experimented with light materials where a subtle and profound movement is applied.  Mitsouka drew his inspiration not only from the word “ghost” itself but also words deriving from it, such as “ghosting”, a technique used in television in order to produce a replica of the transmitted image, which is then super-imposed on top of the main image on an analog broadcast.  This idea of “super-imposing” through technical patterns is exactly what Shinsuke Mitsouka used in his collection to get the effect of various fabrics. The color name “Ghost white” is the main theme for this collection and is being used to create a pure, cleansing and silent atmosphere seeming almost ghost-like.

This is only an example of how much thought the 28-year-old designer puts into the themes and completion of his innovative designs. So lets hope to hear more of Liberum Arbitrium soon!

It is always nice to recall the elegance and glamour of the 1950′s. The style that defined that short lived period is at the core of what has inspired fashion designer Changa Park to make her collection named ”Empowering woman”.  The title itself tells us that it is about a strong, successful and confident lady – a superwoman in all senses.

The garments from this collection produce a higher level of power and femininity. The combination of black and ivory emphasizes the strength and sensuality of a woman at the same time. Ladylike pieces are adorned with pleats and dramatic shoulders ,so the whole look is glamorous and aristocratic. The designer insists on making versatile pieces that can look appropriate in different occasions, whether formal or informal, depending on personal preferences and style.

The clothes are tailored to different forms of the female body, and there is something for every ones tastes: V-necks (a particularly interesting piece is the asymmetrical one ), pointed shoulders, heart shaped bust line, accentuated waists and puffy sleeves on a black coat. The pieces are comfortable to wear next to the skin as they are made of carefully selected materials: angora wool, cashmere, chiffon, duchess and silk satin.

Designer Changa Park is based in Seoul, South Korea. She graduated from the London College of Fashion and gained work experience at Diane Von Furstenberg and Viktor & Rolf. Park has her own clothing line entitled ”C.ah” whose main concept is  a superwoman and everything else that comes with her: strength, glamour, confidence and, of course,  positive energy.

Once again Japanese designer Tamae Hirokawa Geode made her bold and daring entrance at Tokyo Fashion Week, presenting the latest eccentric A/W collection composed of expected extreme silhouettes and theatrical shapes. A manifest gothic-inspired taste meets feminine details and accessories giving Somarta a very distinctive and wearable look also for this season. The deep intense hues of red and beige, united to the all-pervading presence of black and white contrasts perfectly complemented the juxtaposition of rugged leathers and ruffled dresses.

The uniqueness in Hirokawa’s designs is probably the ability of expressing extreme originality yet at the same time never quite sacrificing the overall wearability of her collections: edgy and outlandish heels are balanced out by delicate lace tights; skinny, dark jackets are cleverly combined with pale and puffy chiffon skirts. Also very well known for her brilliant collaboration with Noritaka Tatehana in the creation of extravagant heel-less footwear, Somarta presented a number of its outfits with pieces from this collection, a contribution to an already very powerful and intense look. The textures represent a strong point in the designer’s tailoring: layered and draping cuts, discrete furs, crystal and beaded fabrics all give a touch of mystery to the ensembles, along with an elegant femininity.

Equally unconventional hairdos and headpieces were created to match the eccentricity of the outfits that reveal the essence of Hirokawa’s work as being more than just clothes: a translation of her fantasies.