Altuzarra

It’s hard to state if the greatest news coming from New York Fashion Week was the enchanting SS 14 collection by Altuzarra or the announcement of the acquisition of a minority interest in this brand by the fashion giant Kering (formally known as PPR).

What is no doubted is the promising future for Altuzarra;  after several seasons of collections promoting a nonchalant approach to elegance, the brand has further confirmed its approach to feminine beauty. The SS 14 collection is a balanced compromise between refined artisanal technique and ready-to-wear mood: inspiration mainly comes from the patchwork clothing of Japanese Boro, which was re-elaborated in delicate draping and careful selection of bright colours, with stripes definitely leading the way. As a matter of fact, it is quite hard to find an outfit without even an imperceptible application of striped fabric, the everlasting pattern par excellence.

No trousers are used in this collection, but one could never say this is the triumph of extreme elegance: juxtaposition of fabrics and morbid shapes strongly contribute to the look the designer has conceived for every woman, a look that is classy but still casual.

Coupling of crisp silk striped shirts and slim side split skirts play a leading role, but wool poncho capes and fringed leather dresses are a more fanciful alternative of fitting silhouettes, together with metallic dresses, a more nighty choice.

Looking at the entire collection, it is easy to imagine how it fits for metropolitan life, especially due to the adaptability of every garment to any context. Even if the collection was conceived before the acquisition by Kering, it is hard to figure out a better way of celebrating this great event, the beginning of real growth.

Eleonora Sagretti

NEW YORK SS 2014