When referring to the fearlessness, as well as the creative provocation and rebellion of the Italian female contemporary artist, Maria Grazia Chiuri and her co-designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, it can definitely be said that they stole a march on fashion critic long before anyone would notice and annotate that Valentino tends to play it safe.
Yes, there were some signature items that the Roman fashion house offered for the upcoming winter, but the inspiration that the designer duo had found in the works of art of Carla Accardi, Giosetta Fioroni and Carol Rama left its mark right at the outset of the proposal. Namely, there was the pop art vibe in the form of disguised cartoonish florals comprised of bold dots. These jovial opening looks featured a statement fringe double-layered skirt, a few significant coats and a standout cape covered in leather circle panels. The designers showed some respect for the nerdy shirt-collar frocks – red on black and red on coral.
That being said, there was nothing geeky about the similar version of the dress that was covered in butterfly and floral prints – the power of metallic caught red-handed. The leather garments had their own moments, too, and every time they were massive black pieces, simple and somehow profound at the same time.
Then came the eveningwear, always the highly anticipated section of their collections. It was mostly sheer, floral, virginal and delicate, and everything led to the enthralling final tulle gown with stars on the skirt and strategically placed large red heart on the bodice. In this case, translucent is so enchanting that it seems that it does not reveal anything. That is why it will almost certainly persist in being the vital part of Valentino’s DNA.
March 28, 2014
Academy of Design Australia
Central Saint Martins
British Higher School of Art and Design
Parsons
LOFT 42
Red Dot design award
