Mary Katrantzou

Gone are the days when Mary Katrantzou was known predominantly for her distinguishable concept that initially made her famous – the hyper-realistic digital printing. In other news, for the next autumn/winter season, the young Greek designer decided to send us one key message: There’s more where all the optical illusions came from.

This time, the brand’s recognizable cocktail dresses were in the minority. Instead of the shorter, seductive frocks, the series of floor-sweeping long-sleeved ’’mature’’ gowns formed the core of the proposal. The elongated silhouettes were made of contrasts: the strict turtlenecks on the top as opposed to the strikingly swaying skirts at the bottom. To eschew sinking in austerity, the line-up was well-balanced between elegance and sporty vibe. This was achieved mainly by the presence of a few sweatshirts, including the supersoft fuzzy ones.

Given that the inspiration for the decoration grew from the ideas of uniform, nationality, language and most diverse symbols, the pieces were adorned with a variety of patterns - from the panels reminiscent of road signs and scout badges to the ornaments that resembled military insignia. These macho elements (teamed up with the luxurious masculine coats and a few dazzling metallic trouser suits) are a crucial part of the silent femininity in the collection.

With this peripeteia Katrantzou proved to know a thing or two, and when it comes to her beloved digital prints … well, they will have to wait their turn.

Jelena Askovic
@jelena_askovic

LONDON AW 2014/15